Need help in purchasing a refrigerator.

There are no separate airflow channels so I don't understand why this would be different in a sammy.
Airflow might be same, they have different evaporator coils for freezer and fridge. This, Samsung say, maintains independent pressure for fridge and freezer. He demonstrated the same and it worked as intended. When he showed a regular model having a single evaporator coil, hard closing the fridge door did open the freezer door slightly. What is the physics behind it, don't know much as of now.
The appliance business is full of meaningless buzz words and loads of nonsense.
The lady in charge of showcasing products told the same about Samsung. It is finding it difficult to compete with LG and coming with features which, half of the time, people won't remember, or they won't use as they are busy with their usual life. She also mentioned that we would take feedback from customers when they come for other products and they say they hardly use these features(questionable, but possible since it's a renowned store). I appreciated her practicality.

I am still trying to understand how switching off the freezer or freezer-->fridge won't save power. This is my understanding.
Say the total usable volume is 10L, for ease of understanding(8L fridge+2L freezer). When I switch off the freezer, the compressor would still be running but now the volume to manage is only 8L. This would mean reduced load and step-down of the compressor as it would reach the set temps early. After that it's plain managing the temp. So it should save electricity. From what I understand, Twin Cooling+ has two separate fans and separate evaporator coil for freezer and fridge. One independent of the other. Or am I missing something?
 
I am still trying to understand how switching off the freezer or freezer-->fridge won't save power. This is my understanding.
Say the total usable volume is 10L, for ease of understanding(8L fridge+2L freezer). When I switch off the freezer, the compressor would still be running but now the volume to manage is only 8L. This would mean reduced load and step-down of the compressor as it would reach the set temps early. After that it's plain managing the temp. So it should save electricity. From what I understand, Twin Cooling+ has two separate fans and separate evaporator coil for freezer and fridge. One independent of the other. Or am I missing something?
I have the samsung, its now 7 years old. I have used the convertible modes may be 3 times, when I am away.
These fridges being a inverter compressor can run at lower speeds, so when the freezer section is switched Off. Obviously there will be savings in electricity.
I think they just have two fans and not two separate evaporator coils.

In my older Panasonic non inverter bottom freezer, there is just one fan but has a mechanical switch which controls the flaps to direct the air flow either to both evenly or majority to freezer or fridge.

So in the inverter fridge it will have two temperature sensors for the freezer and fridge section. The fans when its cooling the freezer will run but the inverter compressor will also spin at higher rpm=more cooling power.

When its the turn of the fridge section to cool, the inverter will run at a slower rpm. Its also possible that when both the freezer and fridge needs cooling at the same time and if the compressor is running at a higher speed the fan in fridge section may spin at lower rpm while the fan in freezer section will spin at a higher rpm.

This is the cheap way they can do it without putting another evaporator coil, which would increase the cost.
 
I think they just have two fans and not two separate evaporator coils.
This does mention two fans and two coils.
Regardless, Would you guys suggest it would be a wise idea to coat the copper pipes with enamel coating? My area has presence of hydrogen sulphide, sometimes dense, so it reacts with copper forming a blackish layer of copper sulphide. Most of my copper utensils have gone black. The coating should help copper from reacting with sulphur in the air. The local technician did this last year to prevent the copper tubes in the new compressor from sulphurisation. Not to mention corrosion due to salty air.

As you can see, the top tub like structure has the enamel coating, while the pipes inside the water collector tray and one adjascent to it have been sulphurised.
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I have this... But 27 ml
 
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This does mention two fans and two coils.
Regardless, Would you guys suggest it would be a wise idea to coat the copper pipes with enamel coating? My area has presence of hydrogen sulphide, sometimes dense, so it reacts with copper forming a blackish layer of copper sulphide. Most of my copper utensils have gone black. The coating should help copper from reacting with sulphur in the air. The local technician did this last year to prevent the copper tubes in the new compressor from sulphurisation. Not to mention corrosion due to salty air.

As you can see, the top tub like structure has the enamel coating, while the pipes inside the water collector tray and one adjascent to it have been sulphurised.

I have this... But 27 ml
I keep learning new stuff. Only thing missing is bling
 
No noise. Very silent. Had to keep ears to the fridge to check if compressor started running :laughing:
That's how it should be.

But mine sounded like this after running it for a few days every time the compressor switched on. Once he fixed it I could not tell it was working without a watt meter.

My Kelvinator used to sound like this
This does mention two fans and two coils.
Ah, ok that makes sense because sammy allows you to switch off either fridge or freezer so they would need two independent units.

Thing is this only applies when you go on vacation. In normal use you will be using both compartments either the freezer or converted to a fridge.

Regardless, Would you guys suggest it would be a wise idea to coat the copper pipes with enamel coating? My area has presence of hydrogen sulphide, sometimes dense, so it reacts with copper forming a blackish layer of copper sulphide. Most of my copper utensils have gone black. The coating should help copper from reacting with sulphur in the air. The local technician did this last year to prevent the copper tubes in the new compressor from sulphurisation. Not to mention corrosion due to salty air.

As you can see, the top tub like structure has the enamel coating, while the pipes inside the water collector tray and one adjascent to it have been sulphurised. View attachment 130852
Copper getting oxidised does not threaten structural integrity like say rust on steel which is damaging. That is what you are worried about in this application.

Where copper oxidation is a problem is if it coats electrical contacts and hinders proper contact. Then you will find the appliance or device stops working. Continuity problem.

Now here's the thing. H2S isn't going to damage your copper pipes. Salt water will though. But you are not running salt water through your pipes. It's the atmosphere that has salt in it and that is likely to be a much slower process. I seriously doubt that is enough to cause leaks in your pipes. Don't confuse with steel here. Steel will structurally weaken in such an environment and is painted with enamel for precisely this reason.


If it gives you peace of mind then do it. I'd use a transparent kind of enamel coating (clear coat?) though so the pipe remains viewable. Otherwise paint will just obscure things which you do not want. Polish the copper pipes first before applying the clear coat.
I have this... But 27 ml
Available in clear coat ?
I am still trying to understand how switching off the freezer or freezer-->fridge won't save power. This is my understanding.
Say the total usable volume is 10L, for ease of understanding(8L fridge+2L freezer). When I switch off the freezer, the compressor would still be running but now the volume to manage is only 8L. This would mean reduced load and step-down of the compressor as it would reach the set temps early. After that it's plain managing the temp. So it should save electricity. From what I understand, Twin Cooling+ has two separate fans and separate evaporator coil for freezer and fridge. One independent of the other. Or am I missing something?
Yes it would but then you lose the use of the upper compartment.

Why would you do that in normal use ?

Either you use the top compartment as a freezer or as a fridge. Using it as a fridge might consume less power.

And makes me wonder whether these power ratings are based on using the thing in the fridge mode. That could explain the lower values states on the label as opposed to my measurements.

Which means the BEE ratings are the lowest possible consumption values the fridge will provide.

In normal use this does not mean much but gives a way to grade performance.

Hmm, wonder if that is how BEE works :bookworm:
[My area has presence of hydrogen sulphide, sometimes dense, so it reacts with copper forming a blackish layer of copper sulphide. Most of my copper utensils have gone black.
If you use lemon and salt does it restore it ? the salt here only works as an abrasive, its the citric acid in the lemon that does the cleaning.

Problem is within a couple of weeks they will be black again so the improvement in appearance is strictly temporary.

Question to ponder is has the copper on your pots become weaker over time being exposed to H2S and salty air ;)
 
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Raise the front screws a little so the door closes on its own. Meaning when you open the door and release it should close on it own. If it does not then you have to raise the front two screws. This also has the added benefit of allowing the refrigerant to flow to the back more easily. I never knew this until I read the manual. With the previous fridge many times the door was not closed because some one forgot. This new fridges sound an alarm if the door is left open.
Gone through the manual. It makes no mention of levelling with the front end higher than the rear end as you mentioned. Could it be due to different models? While I agree with the concept that gravity will pull back the refrigerant when there is a height mismatch. Mine is R-600a, I think most have migrated to this gas. Mine is levelled but the doors wont close if left open.
And boy!! this thing is tall. It leaves no room on the top. Wonder how did my calculations go wrong.
The quick guide also says wait for 2 hours to allow the compressor oil to settle. But I am sticking with 4.
I coated the copper part of the compressor with the dark one. It was a remaining from the previous use. Should any issue arise, will use mineral oil to remove it.
 

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Ok, I see. I checked my samsung fridge it service manual had one evaporator coil. Mine only has the option to convert freezer to fridge. But not shutting down a full compartment, like the newer models.

The coating can help, but I think its oxidized because that is the cold line. The hotter line looks clean. I hope he vacuumed the lines when he changed the compressor.

Many companies have a Blue fin coating that companies apply to AC coils and Lg also has something like a yellow coating, We need to know where we can get them since they don't affect the thermal properties and also protect the copper.
 
Gone through the manual. It makes no mention of levelling with the front end higher than the rear end as you mentioned. Could it be due to different models?
No. See below an extract from my manual
While I agree with the concept that gravity will pull back the refrigerant when there is a height mismatch. Mine is R-600a, I think most have migrated to this gas.
So is mine. Notice the T for climate class in the ratings label for Tropical.
Mine is levelled but the doors wont close if left open.
Then you need to raise the front screws a little.
 

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I hope he vacuumed the lines when he changed the compressor.
Nope, but since it's gone no issues. Do we need to vacuum the new refrigerator too before powering on?
Then you need to raise the front screws a little.
Tried moving it, they won't rotate. Anti-clockwise for left and clockwise for right. Do we need to use the jack to move the screws coz I tried with my hands and they won't move.
The diagram on both the quick installation guide and manual are misleading. They should mention that you need to tilt from the rear end and get your hands beneath the front screws and move them. There's no way my hands are going to go beneath the screws while its resting on the floor.
Ok , so it does mention with the change in wordings. Hence couldn't catch it. It says fridge should be levelled with front to back inclination.
 
Tried moving it, they won't rotate. Anti-clockwise for left and clockwise for right. Do we need to use the jack to move the screws coz I tried with my hands and they won't move.
The diagram on both the quick installation guide and manual are misleading. They should mention that you need to tilt from the rear end and get your hands beneath the front screws and move them. There's no way my hands are going to go beneath the screws while its resting on the floor.
Ok , so it does mention with the change in wordings. Hence couldn't catch it. It says fridge should be levelled with front to back inclination.
It's not clear in your comment whether your fridge even has front screws ? how can you level it in that case.

The back are usually a couple of wheels for moving it around. So they tilt it back and then wheel it into the house.

If not then get a couple of 2mm wood pieces or something and place under each front screw after you levelled it.
 
It's not clear in your comment whether your fridge even has front screws ? how can you level it in that case.
Quite possible, I might not have screws. I mean I don't know how the fridge with screws is supposed to look like. What I am interpreting as screw could be resting pad.
Mine looks like this..
 

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Quite possible, I might not have screws. I mean I don't know how the fridge with screws is supposed to look like. What I am interpreting as screw could be resting pad.
Mine looks like this..
That's it you've got them. There was no spanner provided with my fridge like with the washing machine.

So if you have someone help to tip it back a little you might be able to adjust them easier. Or just use some pliers.

Raise them until the door closes by itself. Otherwise that door open alarm is going to drive you crazy
 
So started operating the fridge, seems pretty quite than my last one.
Currently operating at 82W. Will see in the morning how the readings progress.
 
Well my readings for the consumption with the new Meco for the last 17 days average out to 1.03kW per day. The fridge is half full.

The 4 star label says 237 units per year which is 0.65 units day. Well my numbers are 60% above and i don't think there is a problem here.

Maybe we get closer to those figures on the label if its used in fridge only mode.

The temperature in the kitchen is 29-30C these days. The kitchen does not get direct sunlight.
Mine only has the option to convert freezer to fridge. But not shutting down a full compartment, like the newer models.
I can see the advantage of converting the freezer into a second fridge compartment but i can't work out which demographic wants to switch off either the fridge and not the freezer or the other way around ??

If its just about saying you can do something LG and others cannot then great but the practicality of such a feature is dubious at best.
So what did I lose...
1. No more convertible features. It can still convert freezer to fridge, but that's about it.
You just can't switch off freezer and keep fridge on or vice versa. What kind of use case needs that ?

This is not a deciding factor when choosing between the two.
 
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Quite possible, I might not have screws. I mean I don't know how the fridge with screws is supposed to look like. What I am interpreting as screw could be resting pad.
Mine looks like this..
Once you've removed the tapes, it can be adjusted by hand. I didn't need any tool to level it. The foot knob without weight will wobble and will be easy to twist by hand
 
i had a bad experience with lG the heating element preventing freezing of coolant in pipes failed 4 years in. Had to throw away whole fridge.Same with LG microwave had quality issues with it. Avoid lg.
 
Once you've removed the tapes, it can be adjusted by hand. I didn't need any tool to level it. The foot knob without weight will wobble and will be easy to twist by hand
So it's basically a 2 person job. Someone needs to hold the fridge in tilted position while the other adjusts the knob/screw.
 
So it's basically a 2 person job. Someone needs to hold the fridge in tilted position while the other adjusts the knob/screw.
If you've removed the tapes then it can be done 1person. If there is a wobble, the weight will be on one foot which will be tight to adjust and the other one will be adjustable by hand. I held it in tilt while my dad removed the tapes. After that, I just sat down and adjusted the foot that was wobbling.
 
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