How to ensure AC installation is correct?

Installation done.
1. Manuel said that Indoor unit is supposed to be be 15 cm below the ceiling and atleast a distance of 15 cm from any wall(if installed near a wall). Technician was insisting it wont matter and was installing right below the ceiling. Upon insistance, he agreed.

2. Ended up coughing 4.3k for 3.5 mts of extra copper wire(since the outdoor unit had to be placed at the terrace) and bracketss.

3. There was a gas leak near one of the solder points. Technician detected it and fixed it. Confirmed there was no leakage with a device.


Questions:
The amount of water coming out of the drain point seems to be quite a bit. The water falls in the basement where people walk. Apartment society people might create a ruckus over it. How much water is drained out usually for you the units that you guys own?
 
wow thats very costly for copper pipe, why so? Here I am charged 650rs/meter

If you are in a humid place, there will be lot of water draining. May be redirect it to somewhere?

Guys whats the amperage of ACs? This is my AC - Carrier AC 2T

I want to know which wire I have to use. I bought this as shop guy recommended me - 4sq mm. But now I am checking 4sq mm wire amp is 24A. Another option is 2.5 sq mm and whose amperage is 18A.

Please suggest.

Tagging @Criminal
 
No. What is it for?

My bedroom already had a socket point made for AC. So just fixed it there.It's switch is located among the buttons for AC and fan, just like any other
 
No. What is it for?

My bedroom already had a socket point made for AC. So just fixed it there.It's switch is located among the buttons for AC and fan, just like any other
Its a fuse. It protects your AC. YOU SHOULD INSTALL IT!

have you also bought a stabilizer? I bought this V Guard VG 500 since I have 2 Ton Ac
 
I want to know which wire I have to use.
Amperage should be mentioned on the unit. ACs draw lot of amps while starting. Running amps are quite less. You should find out this higher amperage for your model.

Use the thicker wire, which should match the amp requirements for your AC. Over extended use, thin wires will simply heat up and melt or catch fire. Same is the case with MCB boxes... they'll melt if they are plasticky. Moreover, plastic ones are easier to fake. Market is full of replicas of reputed brands. I found this out when our GE camlock fuse-holders melted this winter. They even had hologram stickers!

But this thick AC wire should also run from AC socket to the distribution box for your house. There's point having a thinner wire inside the conduits and a small run of thick wire just for connecting the AC. I hope you have that covered already.
 
Amperage should be mentioned on the unit.
checked the manual and looked on unit, its not mentioned anywhere :/

Moreover, plastic ones are easier to fake. Market is full of replicas of reputed brands. I found this out when our GE camlock fuse-holders melted this winter. They even had hologram stickers!
wow! I bought this Havells from an authorized distributor

But this thick AC wire should also run from AC socket to the distribution box for your house. There's point having a thinner wire inside the conduits and a small run of thick wire just for connecting the AC. I hope you have that covered already.
I didn't understand the second sentence

as of now, I am getting the wiring done, from the socket which powers AC to the mains. So my question was which wire
 
@raptor3624 MCB = Miniature Circuit breaker. Loosely speaking it is a switch that turn itself off when the current exceeds it's rating , basically acting as a fuse.

@avi Running current for a 2 ton 3 star AC should be around 10A, exact ratings you will get in the specification sheet. For an AC of this rating a 16A MCB is recommended and this should take care of any surge currents as well. Putting a 32A MCB is not of much use, as it will defeat the purpose of putting the MCB.

The current rating of wire is given as maximum current rating and not as continous current rating. So for a 2 ton AC it is suggestd that use a 4 sq mm wire, though 2.5 sqmm wire shall also take the load easily.
If you pair a 2.5 sq mm wire with 32A MCB, in case of overcurrent your wire will blow before your MCB trips.

Installation kit for AC are normally priced around ₹250 per running feet. This includes drain pipe, pair of copper tubes and ISI marked 2.5 sq mm 3 core cable[DOUBLEPOST=1461747777][/DOUBLEPOST]@avi Your AC has a power rating of 1910 watts, so specified running current will be 8.3 Amp. Also I just checked, the AC board purchased by you already has a MCB so there is no need to install extra MCB.
 
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For an AC of this rating a 16A MCB is recommended and this should take care of any surge currents as well. Putting a 32A MCB is not of much use, as it will defeat the purpose of putting the MCB.
Interesting. So I think I need to return this and get a different MCB

The current rating of wire is given as maximum current rating and not as continous current rating. So for a 2 ton AC it is suggestd that use a 4 sq mm wire, though 2.5 sqmm wire shall also take the load easily.
So which wire sir, 4sq mm or 2.5sq mm? Here are the ratings - http://i.imgur.com/nZsq9iR.jpg

so for 4sq mm its 24A and 2.5mm is 18A

If you pair a 2.5 sq mm wire with 32A MCB, in case of overcurrent your wire will blow before your MCB trips.
and what would happen if I had 4sq mm wire?

Installation kit for AC are normally priced around ₹250 per running feet. This includes drain pipe, pair of copper tubes and ISI marked 2.5 sq mm 3 core cable
so about 750rs/meter.

@avi Your AC has a power rating of 1910 watts, so specified running current will be 8.3 Amp.
can you tell me how did you calculate this?

Also I just checked, the AC board purchased by you already has a MCB so there is no need to install extra MCB.
No, this came without MCB, so I had to buy it separately. Or may be seller cheated me

That's what he meant as well.
I didn't get this: There's point having a thinner wire inside the conduits and a small run of thick wire just for connecting the AC.
 
Interesting. So I think I need to return this and get a different MCB
So which wire sir, 4sq mm or 2.5sq mm? Here are the ratings - http://i.imgur.com/nZsq9iR.jpg
so for 4sq mm its 24A and 2.5mm is 18A
and what would happen if I had 4sq mm wire?

Better to go for 4 sq mm as it will leave you some headroom. MCB continues to be 16A or 20A, as the purpose of of MCB is to provide protection against overcurrent. 16 A may give some trips if the starting current of your compressor is high. Opt for a C type MCB, it will be mentioned on MCB.

so about 750rs/meter.
Yes. However many sell them without cable so it may be cheaper as well.

can you tell me how did you calculate this?
Power = Volts x Amps. Our supply Voltage is 230 V.
 
one more question, if my AC amps is 8-9A, why not get MCB of 10A?

Better to go for 4 sq mm as it will leave you some headroom. MCB continues to be 16A, as the purpose of of MCB is to provide protection against overcurrent.
Earlier electrician installed 2.5 sq mm wire (he calls it 320, don't know why, but this is 3 core cable). Yesterday when I went to buy MCB, shop guy said remove 2.5 sqmm and install 4sqmm, thats why all this confusion :/

if 4sqmm is better then I will get it replaced with current installed 2.5sqmm
 
I didn't get this: There's point having a thinner wire inside the conduits and a small run of thick wire just for connecting the AC.

He missed out on a 'no'.
It should have been - There's no point having a thinner wire....

Basically he just wanted to convey that the thick wire should run from the mains to the AC and not just from the power socket. Which is exactly what you are doing as well.
 
for 2 ton AC, 4 sq mm is recommended.
one more question, if my AC amps is 8-9A, why not get MCB of 10A?
10 A MCB will not work in your case, it will trip always. The starting current of compressor may reach 2 times the rated value so best is to get a 20A MCB.

I am not sure about 320 cable, but it may be 3 core with each core having 20 strands.

regarding this
There's point having a thinner wire inside the conduits and a small run of thick wire just for connecting the AC.
I feel OP wanted to say There's no point .....[DOUBLEPOST=1461752497][/DOUBLEPOST]EDIT:
IF he has used an old generation cable, then it will be 3/20 that means it's a single core and has 3 wire strands of 20 SWG. You will need 3 such cables. These cables are not in much circulation now and we have shifted to multistrand flexible cables. For AC, multicore cables are norm.
 
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I didn't get this: There's point having a thinner wire inside the conduits and a small run of thick wire just for connecting the AC.
Sorry for the confusion... I missed a 'no' :facepalm:

AC.png
Some installation guys charge in running length, which may include wires as well. But it's meant for point 'D' only. And I assumed you were discussing about this area only. Obviously, you need to have 'C' as robust as 'D'.

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You can omit MCB at AC outlet if you have a dedicated one at the distribution box. In my case, I have two outlets side by side for AC usage in each room. Both are rated for same amperage but the plastic one has an MCB at the distribution box.

http://carriermideaindia.com/ester-3-star.aspx It's surprising that your AC manual doesn't talk anything about installation. They should've mentioned something about min/max copper pipe length or the pressure to be maintained, in case the installation length deviates from the standard range. Min/max amp consumption would've given you the wire dimensions. Anyway, get in touch with them and get these figures for your own reference/satisfaction.

Basically, they want you to be dependent on them or 3rd party. India is a market for middlemen and each company favors middlemen over consumers.
 
You can omit MCB at AC outlet if you have a dedicated one at the distribution box.
Actually I don't :/

They should've mentioned something about min/max copper pipe length or the pressure to be maintained, in case the installation length deviates from the standard range. Min/max amp consumption would've given you the wire dimensions.
The they also gave a small paper which has AC installation instructions but it does NOT mention about

- min or max copper length
- pressure
- min/max amps

This is a new AC model and now I doubt even if technicians will know or not :(

Also, I bought this stabilizer, hope its right for my AC. So where will stabiliser go?

1. Mains -> MCB -> Stabilizer > AC
2. Mains > Stabilizer > MCB > AC
 
1. Mains -> MCB -> Stabilizer > AC
^^ this way

Lot of people buy Vguard stabilizers... so it should be good. And your model supports 2T AC. I don't have any experience in buying stabilizers, as luckily we didn't have to use one in the past 16 years.

This is a new AC model and now I doubt even if technicians will know or not :(
This is really going to create problems for you. Get this info from the company. In my case, company installers didn't know very simple things like optimal height for a slanted chimney and the distance from back wall for a built-in hob. Both the appliances are installed improperly. AC installation is much more complex. You should take charge here instead of relying on technicians.
 
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