Yesterday while watching Battle Of Algiers I accidentally broke my Headphone jack' in Half :no: .
I'm using Philips SHP2500 and I don't wont to change my headphones as these are one of the most comfortable headphones I've used.
So please help me in getting a new 3.5mm Jack and soldering it to the wire.
My story Till now :
Since one cannot fix a broken 3.5mm jack I removed it and soldered the wires to a cheap 3.5mm jack that I scavenged from a broken headphone. But there still are a lot of problems :
1. Sticking the solder on the wire is a big problem. I managed to fix all the wires properly but they kept on getting loose and were giving a lot of distortions.
2. Endurance - Making it strong enough for regular use is also important but it seems to be impossible with a scavenged jack. For this I'll need a good headphone jack that has an outer shell that can be screwed on tight(like the one's available at Lammy's streets).
Can you please give me some ideas on how to solder the joints effectively and if there's a better solder material to use(I'm using elCheapo lead solder wire w/flux).
I'll also need suggestions for a new 3.5mm jack that is strong and easy to solder.
^Clean the surfaces and the 3 wires from the headphones. Use a solder which has a flux core. You need not apply flux separately in this case. Before soldering the wires, apply a bit of solder before. Seal the jack with a cellophane tape.
Buy an MX make 3.5mm jack. Generally lasts and performs a notch better than those run-of-the-mill jacks available in electronic stores.
I would suggest use the Soldron liquid flux. It makes soldering absolutely painless. Coupled with a 25W Soldron Iron n Resin Core solder, soldering will be a dream.
All of this and the jack is available at Lamington.
Especially with the really cheap jacks, it is very difficult to get the solder to stick on properly. Also there is very less space near the terminals on the jack, so if are a little clumsy with the soldering (like I am), the end result will be crude and messy.
My headphone jack had a loose connection, I bought a jack and soldered it with a lot of difficulty but ended connecting L and R in Reverse
Finally I cut off the jack and cable about 5-6 cms from one end (i.e jack and 5-6 cms cable) from a spare audio cable lying around (the ones with a headphone jack at both ends) and just connected the wires properly to the headphone wires, soldered it and covered it neatly with black insulation tape. It's working fine for the past few months
I have a Neutrik plug let me know if ur interested.I got 2 of them for my portable audio setup nut my mp3 player is dead now .I will be getting fuze so this is of no use to me
Instead of applyin Mseal.I would suggest put a cable sleeve and then a spring around it My Philips SHP 9000 is similar.Applying Mseal would make it harder and it will not be flexible.here have a look at the SHP900 cable Philips SHP9000 HiFi Headphones
I've got similar problems with my shp 9000 cable which unfortunately use a custom shaped jack to lock into the headphone which I doubt are available in the market. Is there any way to get at the wires without destroying the jack?
I've seen that jack(SHP 9000's), it's not available in the local market. I soldered both the channels properly secured them using M-Seal but still the impedance of both the channels is different(32ohm and 55ohm :rofl: ). So I would recommend you to get it soldered from someone who's really proficient with these kind of jobs.
I got a good quality MX steel-copper jack after a lot of headhunting, it's been a year since then. Philips wires are very thick, and your model has a rubber cable !!!, so you'll have to peel off some cable to make it thinner so that it fits in the new 3.5mm Jack screw. Try to burn the cable under a blue flame to get to the naked wires(which are again in a ceramic coating).
I'm talking about the jack at the headphone end; I don't think a standard jack would fit into the opening. Also the cable is covered by some kind of fabric. For now, I've just used a tie wire to make the cable stay stiff at the strain relief as a temporary measure and that seems to help with the loose contact(I'm losing sound in right cup when the cable shifts around).
