1.5 ton Inverter AC recommendation
- Thread starter rajil.s
- Start date
The JTkJ has a backlight remote is a higher series, it has a display in the indoor unit that shows outdoor unit load in percentage, set temperature and current room temperature. It also has a PIR sensor which if enabled detects human moment and if no moment is detected it lowers the outdoor unit load and air flow(if set to auto). Lastly it has both vertical and horizontal axis air flow.
FTKF50 lacks the above features, has only vertical axis air flow but blows more air. Slightly less cooling power.
FTKF50 lacks the above features, has only vertical axis air flow but blows more air. Slightly less cooling power.
JTKJ50 is selling for 54k on Flipkart and 45k with 6.5k discount on Paytm Mall. Does it make sense to buy from PaytmMall?
Also, is it safe to buy AC online considering leakage etc of the refrigerant during transportation.
Also, is it safe to buy AC online considering leakage etc of the refrigerant during transportation.
I bought mine online but from another store, considering the savings its worth it. just call a authorized daikin showroom near you to install them. They will charge you for that.
Make sure you inspect the package for damages before the return window(if paytmmall as a option). I returned a luminous pedestral fan which costed 4.5k after 2 weeks due to malfunction and they paytmall honored the return and refunded, it varies from seller to seller though.
The package already comes with indoor to outdoor unit control cable 3.5 meters and 3 meters of insulated copper pipe.
For daikin Ac the power wire needs to go to the outdoor unit which inturns powers the indoor unit. Assuming the control wire and pipe given is sufficient, you will only need to buy only the power cable from the wall socket or stabilizer socket to the outdoor unit and a wall mount bracket for the out door unit if you plan to mount it on a wall( recommended brand which is sturdy is " cruise or cruze cannot recall" .
I went and bought the wall mount stand and 3 core wire of 2.5sqmm thickness my self, which Saved a few hundred bucks and of better quality. The installation guys only charged 1500 bucks and 300 more for 3 meter of plastic drain pipe(which i forget to buy, a rip off).
The gas comes factory filled in the outdoor unit.
Make sure you inspect the package for damages before the return window(if paytmmall as a option). I returned a luminous pedestral fan which costed 4.5k after 2 weeks due to malfunction and they paytmall honored the return and refunded, it varies from seller to seller though.
The package already comes with indoor to outdoor unit control cable 3.5 meters and 3 meters of insulated copper pipe.
For daikin Ac the power wire needs to go to the outdoor unit which inturns powers the indoor unit. Assuming the control wire and pipe given is sufficient, you will only need to buy only the power cable from the wall socket or stabilizer socket to the outdoor unit and a wall mount bracket for the out door unit if you plan to mount it on a wall( recommended brand which is sturdy is " cruise or cruze cannot recall" .
I went and bought the wall mount stand and 3 core wire of 2.5sqmm thickness my self, which Saved a few hundred bucks and of better quality. The installation guys only charged 1500 bucks and 300 more for 3 meter of plastic drain pipe(which i forget to buy, a rip off).
The gas comes factory filled in the outdoor unit.
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Inverter ACs will gently ramp up the compressor during startup, so there shouldn't be any high inrush current.
Peak power is rated at 1700W, so peak current should be ~7.5 A.
I did measure it with a TRMS clamp meter which can measure the Inrush current during start up and since there was no Inrush there was no reading.
The Ac slowly ramps it up and it never reached more then 5.x amps around 13xx watt, I was trying everything to make it reach 1700w but even at Full load with power chill (powerchill where the fan speed and compressor speed is increased even further then max speed for about 20min duration). I think the 1700w consumption is the worst case scenario power consumption. To date it never went beyond 5.x amps(cannot recall the exact digit but i remember when i did a volt x amp conversion it was around 13xx watt . In fact their brochure and specs say it as 1315w at full load.
The Ac slowly ramps it up and it never reached more then 5.x amps around 13xx watt, I was trying everything to make it reach 1700w but even at Full load with power chill (powerchill where the fan speed and compressor speed is increased even further then max speed for about 20min duration). I think the 1700w consumption is the worst case scenario power consumption. To date it never went beyond 5.x amps(cannot recall the exact digit but i remember when i did a volt x amp conversion it was around 13xx watt . In fact their brochure and specs say it as 1315w at full load.
The worst voltage at my place is 190V. With the worst power consumption of 1700W and an assumed power factor of 0.7, the current draw would be (1700/190*0.7=~13A). That is within the Sonoff range of 16A.
Is it possible to convert the ISEER rating (5 for Daikin) to power factor?
@adder What clamp meter do you have?
Is it possible to convert the ISEER rating (5 for Daikin) to power factor?
@adder What clamp meter do you have?
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N
NotMyRealName
Which model? And how is it running? I have a UT210E which seems a bit quirky at times.
I have the UT208A, got it cheaper I think about $6x to $7x something few years ago, compared to todays price of around $100. It runs great, I bought it after I accidently dropped my mastech from 4 feet, so that I can verify if the mastech was correct after the drop, the reading were slightly different, but then again the Uni-t model is higher priced has specs of 1.5% variation compared mastech which was 3%.
Even still I mostly use the mastech because it uses AAA batteries compared to the 9v battery of the Uni-t. But when I will be installing solar or when something important to measure I will be mostly using the Uni-t.
Even still I mostly use the mastech because it uses AAA batteries compared to the 9v battery of the Uni-t. But when I will be installing solar or when something important to measure I will be mostly using the Uni-t.
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i'm thinking of picking the 210E up, as it can do lower current ranges which are more common in residential use. What do you find quirky with it ?
I find the mastech takes a long time to stabilse with lower currents and isn't reliable for currents under 1A without using a multiplier coil