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Rebuilding an old and mostly problematic TVS Gold Keyboard
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<blockquote data-quote="SunnyBoi" data-source="post: 2214399" data-attributes="member: 138"><p>After my foray into fixing TVS keyboards, I wanted to try something different. I have been long hearing about how there were HCL Mechanical Keyboards with Cherry MX Black switches, it got me intrigued too.</p><p></p><p>So I hopped onto OLX, found a fellow selling a HCL keyboard that was looked like the mechanical models. Bought it and it arrived few days later.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/6KPWzcB.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Oh boy she's a dirty one. The top case was cracked and missing a piece on the bottom left too, one of the feet that raise the keyboard was missing too, if the badly worn keycaps weren't so obvious to being with. Oh well the important part are the switches right?</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/FUjc1EL.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Yup, Cherry MX Black indeed.</p><p></p><p>Removing the entire set of keycaps revealed how dirty this keyboard was. I'm just trying to prop myself up saying this is going to be a wonderful transformation! Hmmm.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/35OKEcl.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I see something interesting - is that a Cherry MX Grey on the spacebar? Yes it is!</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ChHq9IM.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>They keyboard was given the leaf blower treatment and a brush. Opening the top case revealed more dust.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/khF7dh4.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>It's out of the case! on to desoldering switches.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/jssRkR9.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Desoldering these switches was an interesting experience. I initially thought the PCB was of a higher quality compared to the TVS but it kept giving me troubles. I did rip off a few pads but managed to get all the switches out.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/pxa36tP.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The cases and the dust that was in it. They were manufactured in 2009 and so the keyboard is 11 years old by now.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/eYMTrAl.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Looking at the keycaps I got an idea, why don't I use the keycaps from my TVS Gold on these? at first glance, the HCL keycaps looked to be thinner and inferior compared to TVS keycaps. Here you can see the HCL on left and TVS on right, the TVS has na additional thicker plastic ring on top while the HCL is thin throughout.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/hrTfvN5.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>So how much does a TVS stabilised key weigh? 2.43 grams</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/sKGUkXx.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>How much is the HCL in comparision? 1.94 grams. So HCL keycaps being worse wasn't placebo after all.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/bc3UFZf.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Taking apart all switches. I kept the MX grey switch separate since it was much heavier than the standard black and did not want its parts getting mixed up.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/RbGsY5m.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The stems on these switches have a LOT of wear on them. Each of the stems have two deep grooves on the north and south faces, corresponding to the contact point on the tops. Even the center cylindrical stems show signs of wear.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Y6AqVFA.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>I expected this when I got the keyboard though, just pressing a few keys and I could feel as if I was pressing something filled with sand. I did not do any pre-restore-sound-test because I knew with how bad a shape this keyboard was, using it any more would make it worse.</p><p></p><p>With that aside, I found that someone sometime had spilled sambar on the keyboard. Few of the switches were "sambar dipped" with red residues around and inside the switches as well.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/7GUcg00.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>A comparision of springs from MX Grey on left and MX Black on right. The metal on the grey is much thicker and compressing it took more force too.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/bzZnsb2.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Finally all the split parts went into my new toy - an ultrasonic cleaner! Phew, no more scrubbing dirty switches with a brush, definitely saves me at least an hour of labour and time I was not looking forward to.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/4p28UhP.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Just look how black the cleaning fluid has got! These were the dirtiest switches I've got my hands on, till now!</p><p></p><p>Every component blown and left out to dry.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/6SxmPYw.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Just look how these sambar dipped switches have transformed! Not even one tiny speck of dust or dirt in them and the contact leaves have all cleaned up so well! All hail the ultrasonic cleaner!</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ubSi25H.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The next step is lubing and re-assembling all the switches. I did a test with one switch assembled dry, one with a thinned out lube and one with the full thickness lube. The full thickness lube switch sounded better and feltr less scratchy and so this is how I will proceed with lubing! </p><p></p><p>I had switched to a thinner lube for the springs and using the bag lube method. I could still hear the springs on the last TVS keyboard Ive built and was not happy with how it worked. For this HCL, I went ahead with using the same lube for the springs as the switches. This meant I had to apply lube on every switch with a brush meticulously - This took more time and I spent well over 6 hours in lubing and assembling the switches.</p><p></p><p>Finally they were done!</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/UFLDoD4.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>When it came to dampening the switch plate, I went ahead with my tried and tested formula of using foam tape cut in pieces.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/AtMwPZe.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The PCB and switch plate were cleaned to get rid of any and all sambar related residues on them. Lot of the stabilisers on this keyboard were loose and were rattling. The same technique of using paper between the switch plate and stabiliser legs was reduced to make them as tight as possible.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/9NjTWPl.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>The HCL Keyboards have 3 plastic dowels on the top, between the Esc/Function row and number rows. This helped keep the switch plate and PCB be in perfect alignment as I was putting back the switches. This is a huge plus over the TVS where I had to first put a few switches along the edges, press them down and solder them and hope rest of the switches are in alignment. Love it!</p><p></p><p>I've also upped my solder game. Switched to a new Soldron 35W iron and new solder wire and the results show! Almost all the switches have those concave blobs on them and they look so pretty! If only I hadn't messed up so many pads while desoldering I could have had a pretty PCB for this keyboard too!</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/FSqOb7b.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Right - with the PCB and switches soldered, time for a test. Yes it works! ( well almost - three switches did not work - [ Page Up and - on numpad. Turns out mothered traces were the root cause and I soldered jumper wires to fix them which are visible in the previous pic)</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/vQo6j0H.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Right moving on to the cases. The bottom case of the HCL has a set of grooves along the edge and that makes it inherently more rigid than the TVS case. I debated a lot in my mind whether I should use tar sheets on these or not, it might not work as well as it did with the TVS and might be a waste of time. The case had a lot of standoffs to support the PCB and getting around them would also mean lot more effort.</p><p></p><p>I went ahead with it anyway. Two layers of tar sheets were applied.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/TpUhQP9.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Some nitrile foam went on top of the tar sheets.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/WZS9rfq.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Was it worth it? The sound profile when knocking it definitely changed for the better, the keyboard is now heavier, feels more sturdy.</p><p></p><p>Moving on to the keycaps. I've used the TVS keycaps wherever possible - the only HCL keycaps which were reused were the backspace, \, Enter, space and right alt, win, menu and ctrl keys. The obvious power sleep wake buttons again were reused.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Hm3eIUO.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Fitting everything together - there was still some empty gaps in the case and I wanted to use polyfill in them. I searched long and hard in my garage but just couldn't find my sack of polyfill. Oh well I used some new cotton waste to pad up the space instead.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/nTgPZHc.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Its fully assembled! yay! I have not done any cosmetic enhancements to the case i.e., ceramic coat on them yet. </p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/xYudk2k.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>Checking the weight, its around 1.2KGs, around 100-150 grams less than my rebuilt TVS. Its smaller than the TVS width wise and feels more dense.</p><p></p><p><img src="https://i.imgur.com/fiKkMJ1.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>So. Final impressions.</p><p></p><p><strong>Switches</strong></p><p></p><p>My first mechanical keyboard was a Filco Majestouch with Cherry MX Black switches. I used them only for a week, they were too heavy for my with my fingers becoming tired when using them. I soon sold it to a good friend and a TE member while I replaced it with a MS Natural Ergo 4000 keyboard. Ever since I've avoided MX Blacks because of their weight.</p><p></p><p>And so here I am with another keyboard with MX Black switches. While I was just pressing the switches in random, it felt so less weighty than the Filco. Once I assembled the keyboard with the keycaps et all, it felt heavy again - very similar to the filco experience. I have typed this whole post in one stretch on this keyboard and my fingers do feel a bit tired. I have a tendency of trying to bottom out on each keypress which if avoided with the blacks you could be possibly less tired. I want to keep using this keyboard for a while and see if I like it or not. It was interesting to see a MX grey being used for the spacebar, something I have noticed only on old keyboards with MX Black switches. This led me to think that these keys might be Vintage MX Blacks, but it wasn't so.</p><p></p><p>The wear and tear on the sliders has caused more stem wobble than usual but that's about it. These keys still sound scratchy which I feel is inherent with all Cherry switches.</p><p></p><p><strong>Construction and build quality</strong></p><p></p><p>The obvious flaw on the keyboard is the most obvious one at the beginning - the flimsy top bezel. Very delicate and mine arrived broken. This is the weakest part of the keyboard and thankfully it only gets better from here.</p><p></p><p>The bottom case has ridges hence it is more rigid than the TVS. It even has lot of standoffs supporting the PCB so by default the keyboard has very minimal/no PCB flex. </p><p></p><p>The keycaps I got very visibly worn. The quality of print on top of keycaps was worse compared to the TVS, not to mention they are lighter. I have not tried the keyboard with the stock keycaps, perhaps I will do so on my next HCL.</p><p></p><p>The PCB and switch plate are better on the HCL. The alignment dowels are a welcome addition and helped prevent bent pins when reinserting switches to the plate and PCB, which is something that kept happening with the TVS very often.</p><p></p><p><strong>Sound</strong></p><p></p><p>When I rebuild my keyboards, one of the goals is to make them as quite as possible. This keyboard after the rebuilt is very silent, even more silent the the Filco with the same switches. With all the extensive damping, there is no reverb sounds or any spring ping. My only complaint is with the spacebar and it seems its hitting *something* underneath, maybe I'll try adding an o-ring on the stem and see if it helps silence the space bar.</p><p></p><p>I will do a more thorough before/after comparision with my next HCL. As I have explained before, the switches as it reached me were in a very bad shape and I did not want to make them worse anymore than they already were.</p><p></p><p><strong>Keycap Options</strong></p><p></p><p>This keyboard uses the standard ANSI? key layout and you can probably get more keycap options for these compared to a TVS with its huge enter key.</p><p></p><p>However, the last row on the keyboard is non standard with its layout being</p><p></p><p>Left Ctrl - 1.5u</p><p>Left Windows - 1u</p><p>Left Alt - 1.5u</p><p>Spacebar - 7U</p><p>Right Alt - 1u</p><p>Right Windows - 1u</p><p>App - 1u</p><p>Right Ctrl - 1u</p><p></p><p>If you want to order keycaps for a HCL, make sure you have these. Oh the HCL has 3 extra keys - Power Sleep and Wake, make sure you have blanks or something to cover these up as well.</p><p></p><p>And finally, here are some videos/sounds for the end result.</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]zo8Gxb2j-Pg[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]w-2ttPRNUNw[/MEDIA]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SunnyBoi, post: 2214399, member: 138"] After my foray into fixing TVS keyboards, I wanted to try something different. I have been long hearing about how there were HCL Mechanical Keyboards with Cherry MX Black switches, it got me intrigued too. So I hopped onto OLX, found a fellow selling a HCL keyboard that was looked like the mechanical models. Bought it and it arrived few days later. [img]https://i.imgur.com/6KPWzcB.jpg[/img] Oh boy she's a dirty one. The top case was cracked and missing a piece on the bottom left too, one of the feet that raise the keyboard was missing too, if the badly worn keycaps weren't so obvious to being with. Oh well the important part are the switches right? [img]https://i.imgur.com/FUjc1EL.jpg[/img] Yup, Cherry MX Black indeed. Removing the entire set of keycaps revealed how dirty this keyboard was. I'm just trying to prop myself up saying this is going to be a wonderful transformation! Hmmm. [img]https://i.imgur.com/35OKEcl.jpg[/img] I see something interesting - is that a Cherry MX Grey on the spacebar? Yes it is! [img]https://i.imgur.com/ChHq9IM.jpg[/img] They keyboard was given the leaf blower treatment and a brush. Opening the top case revealed more dust. [img]https://i.imgur.com/khF7dh4.jpg[/img] It's out of the case! on to desoldering switches. [img]https://i.imgur.com/jssRkR9.jpg[/img] Desoldering these switches was an interesting experience. I initially thought the PCB was of a higher quality compared to the TVS but it kept giving me troubles. I did rip off a few pads but managed to get all the switches out. [img]https://i.imgur.com/pxa36tP.jpg[/img] The cases and the dust that was in it. They were manufactured in 2009 and so the keyboard is 11 years old by now. [img]https://i.imgur.com/eYMTrAl.jpg[/img] Looking at the keycaps I got an idea, why don't I use the keycaps from my TVS Gold on these? at first glance, the HCL keycaps looked to be thinner and inferior compared to TVS keycaps. Here you can see the HCL on left and TVS on right, the TVS has na additional thicker plastic ring on top while the HCL is thin throughout. [img]https://i.imgur.com/hrTfvN5.jpg[/img] So how much does a TVS stabilised key weigh? 2.43 grams [img]https://i.imgur.com/sKGUkXx.jpg[/img] How much is the HCL in comparision? 1.94 grams. So HCL keycaps being worse wasn't placebo after all. [img]https://i.imgur.com/bc3UFZf.jpg[/img] Taking apart all switches. I kept the MX grey switch separate since it was much heavier than the standard black and did not want its parts getting mixed up. [img]https://i.imgur.com/RbGsY5m.jpg[/img] The stems on these switches have a LOT of wear on them. Each of the stems have two deep grooves on the north and south faces, corresponding to the contact point on the tops. Even the center cylindrical stems show signs of wear. [img]https://i.imgur.com/Y6AqVFA.jpg[/img] I expected this when I got the keyboard though, just pressing a few keys and I could feel as if I was pressing something filled with sand. I did not do any pre-restore-sound-test because I knew with how bad a shape this keyboard was, using it any more would make it worse. With that aside, I found that someone sometime had spilled sambar on the keyboard. Few of the switches were "sambar dipped" with red residues around and inside the switches as well. [img]https://i.imgur.com/7GUcg00.jpg[/img] A comparision of springs from MX Grey on left and MX Black on right. The metal on the grey is much thicker and compressing it took more force too. [img]https://i.imgur.com/bzZnsb2.jpg[/img] Finally all the split parts went into my new toy - an ultrasonic cleaner! Phew, no more scrubbing dirty switches with a brush, definitely saves me at least an hour of labour and time I was not looking forward to. [img]https://i.imgur.com/4p28UhP.jpg[/img] Just look how black the cleaning fluid has got! These were the dirtiest switches I've got my hands on, till now! Every component blown and left out to dry. [img]https://i.imgur.com/6SxmPYw.jpg[/img] Just look how these sambar dipped switches have transformed! Not even one tiny speck of dust or dirt in them and the contact leaves have all cleaned up so well! All hail the ultrasonic cleaner! [img]https://i.imgur.com/ubSi25H.jpg[/img] The next step is lubing and re-assembling all the switches. I did a test with one switch assembled dry, one with a thinned out lube and one with the full thickness lube. The full thickness lube switch sounded better and feltr less scratchy and so this is how I will proceed with lubing! I had switched to a thinner lube for the springs and using the bag lube method. I could still hear the springs on the last TVS keyboard Ive built and was not happy with how it worked. For this HCL, I went ahead with using the same lube for the springs as the switches. This meant I had to apply lube on every switch with a brush meticulously - This took more time and I spent well over 6 hours in lubing and assembling the switches. Finally they were done! [img]https://i.imgur.com/UFLDoD4.jpg[/img] When it came to dampening the switch plate, I went ahead with my tried and tested formula of using foam tape cut in pieces. [img]https://i.imgur.com/AtMwPZe.jpg[/img] The PCB and switch plate were cleaned to get rid of any and all sambar related residues on them. Lot of the stabilisers on this keyboard were loose and were rattling. The same technique of using paper between the switch plate and stabiliser legs was reduced to make them as tight as possible. [img]https://i.imgur.com/9NjTWPl.jpg[/img] The HCL Keyboards have 3 plastic dowels on the top, between the Esc/Function row and number rows. This helped keep the switch plate and PCB be in perfect alignment as I was putting back the switches. This is a huge plus over the TVS where I had to first put a few switches along the edges, press them down and solder them and hope rest of the switches are in alignment. Love it! I've also upped my solder game. Switched to a new Soldron 35W iron and new solder wire and the results show! Almost all the switches have those concave blobs on them and they look so pretty! If only I hadn't messed up so many pads while desoldering I could have had a pretty PCB for this keyboard too! [img]https://i.imgur.com/FSqOb7b.jpg[/img] Right - with the PCB and switches soldered, time for a test. Yes it works! ( well almost - three switches did not work - [ Page Up and - on numpad. Turns out mothered traces were the root cause and I soldered jumper wires to fix them which are visible in the previous pic) [img]https://i.imgur.com/vQo6j0H.jpg[/img] Right moving on to the cases. The bottom case of the HCL has a set of grooves along the edge and that makes it inherently more rigid than the TVS case. I debated a lot in my mind whether I should use tar sheets on these or not, it might not work as well as it did with the TVS and might be a waste of time. The case had a lot of standoffs to support the PCB and getting around them would also mean lot more effort. I went ahead with it anyway. Two layers of tar sheets were applied. [img]https://i.imgur.com/TpUhQP9.jpg[/img] Some nitrile foam went on top of the tar sheets. [img]https://i.imgur.com/WZS9rfq.jpg[/img] Was it worth it? The sound profile when knocking it definitely changed for the better, the keyboard is now heavier, feels more sturdy. Moving on to the keycaps. I've used the TVS keycaps wherever possible - the only HCL keycaps which were reused were the backspace, \, Enter, space and right alt, win, menu and ctrl keys. The obvious power sleep wake buttons again were reused. [img]https://i.imgur.com/Hm3eIUO.jpg[/img] Fitting everything together - there was still some empty gaps in the case and I wanted to use polyfill in them. I searched long and hard in my garage but just couldn't find my sack of polyfill. Oh well I used some new cotton waste to pad up the space instead. [img]https://i.imgur.com/nTgPZHc.jpg[/img] Its fully assembled! yay! I have not done any cosmetic enhancements to the case i.e., ceramic coat on them yet. [img]https://i.imgur.com/xYudk2k.jpg[/img] Checking the weight, its around 1.2KGs, around 100-150 grams less than my rebuilt TVS. Its smaller than the TVS width wise and feels more dense. [img]https://i.imgur.com/fiKkMJ1.jpg[/img] So. Final impressions. [B]Switches[/B] My first mechanical keyboard was a Filco Majestouch with Cherry MX Black switches. I used them only for a week, they were too heavy for my with my fingers becoming tired when using them. I soon sold it to a good friend and a TE member while I replaced it with a MS Natural Ergo 4000 keyboard. Ever since I've avoided MX Blacks because of their weight. And so here I am with another keyboard with MX Black switches. While I was just pressing the switches in random, it felt so less weighty than the Filco. Once I assembled the keyboard with the keycaps et all, it felt heavy again - very similar to the filco experience. I have typed this whole post in one stretch on this keyboard and my fingers do feel a bit tired. I have a tendency of trying to bottom out on each keypress which if avoided with the blacks you could be possibly less tired. I want to keep using this keyboard for a while and see if I like it or not. It was interesting to see a MX grey being used for the spacebar, something I have noticed only on old keyboards with MX Black switches. This led me to think that these keys might be Vintage MX Blacks, but it wasn't so. The wear and tear on the sliders has caused more stem wobble than usual but that's about it. These keys still sound scratchy which I feel is inherent with all Cherry switches. [B]Construction and build quality[/B] The obvious flaw on the keyboard is the most obvious one at the beginning - the flimsy top bezel. Very delicate and mine arrived broken. This is the weakest part of the keyboard and thankfully it only gets better from here. The bottom case has ridges hence it is more rigid than the TVS. It even has lot of standoffs supporting the PCB so by default the keyboard has very minimal/no PCB flex. The keycaps I got very visibly worn. The quality of print on top of keycaps was worse compared to the TVS, not to mention they are lighter. I have not tried the keyboard with the stock keycaps, perhaps I will do so on my next HCL. The PCB and switch plate are better on the HCL. The alignment dowels are a welcome addition and helped prevent bent pins when reinserting switches to the plate and PCB, which is something that kept happening with the TVS very often. [B]Sound[/B] When I rebuild my keyboards, one of the goals is to make them as quite as possible. This keyboard after the rebuilt is very silent, even more silent the the Filco with the same switches. With all the extensive damping, there is no reverb sounds or any spring ping. My only complaint is with the spacebar and it seems its hitting *something* underneath, maybe I'll try adding an o-ring on the stem and see if it helps silence the space bar. I will do a more thorough before/after comparision with my next HCL. As I have explained before, the switches as it reached me were in a very bad shape and I did not want to make them worse anymore than they already were. [B]Keycap Options[/B] This keyboard uses the standard ANSI? key layout and you can probably get more keycap options for these compared to a TVS with its huge enter key. However, the last row on the keyboard is non standard with its layout being Left Ctrl - 1.5u Left Windows - 1u Left Alt - 1.5u Spacebar - 7U Right Alt - 1u Right Windows - 1u App - 1u Right Ctrl - 1u If you want to order keycaps for a HCL, make sure you have these. Oh the HCL has 3 extra keys - Power Sleep and Wake, make sure you have blanks or something to cover these up as well. And finally, here are some videos/sounds for the end result. [MEDIA=youtube]zo8Gxb2j-Pg[/MEDIA] [MEDIA=youtube]w-2ttPRNUNw[/MEDIA] [/QUOTE]
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