Home inverter for fridge?

Scramjet

Disciple
Hi folks,

I need help in buying an inverter that can provide backup for refrigerator. Wanted to know if that's possible. The people I know who use an inverter don't have it connected to their fridge.
The fridge is a Samsung RT26FARZASP/TL (don't know which year, as it's a used fridge bought online recently)
 
Since its a inverter fridge you should be able to run even at a 600va inverter. Since there is zero inrush current in VFD compressor found in inverter refrigerators.
 
I see, thanks a lot. What kind/capacity battery would I need to be able to provide backup for the fridge for say 8-12 hours?

Here's the situation. I moved to this new location about a month ago. Yesterday night power went out and didn't come back for about 14 hours. All the food in the fridge got spoiled and now I have to throw them out. Neighbour tells me this kind out outage is rare, but I want to be prepared if this happens again. So I'm weighing my options.

Since its a inverter fridge you should be able to run even at a 600va inverter. Since there is zero inrush current in VFD compressor found in inverter refrigerators.
 
For Fridge alone to run for 14hrs, 150ah battery should do the trick.
for eg my 320L inverter samsung fridge consumes around 60w to 70w .

A typical inverter self consumes around 50w, so you will need 40ah battery just to run the inverter for 14hrs and the remaining ah for the fridge.
 
I see, thanks a lot. What kind/capacity battery would I need to be able to provide backup for the fridge for say 8-12 hours?

Here's the situation. I moved to this new location about a month ago. Yesterday night power went out and didn't come back for about 14 hours. All the food in the fridge got spoiled and now I have to throw them out. Neighbour tells me this kind out outage is rare, but I want to be prepared if this happens again. So I'm weighing my options.

I use 2x 180AH Exide IT500 batteries. I'm curious which area you moved to? 14hrs outage doesn't appear to be normal.
 
I use a 2kVA Luminous Cruze inverter at home. It runs my 660L hitachi fridge easily with no hiccups.
I've got my eye on this same model, how do you find it so far

Anther point the OP might consider is get both inverter and battery from the same source so as to deal with one party instead of two which will blame the other in case there is any issue and both leave you high and dry
 
Worked great for the last 5 years with no issues. Hope it stays the same. Touchwood!
only thing missing with it is a way to hook up to wifi and allow for some useful info to be queried but i guess that is not going to happen any time soon

How much battery is left for instance.
 
only thing missing with it is a way to hook up to wifi and allow for some useful info to be queried but i guess that is not going to happen any time soon

How much battery is left for instance.
Yea the display is a bit dumb. It either shows ON when its running on battery or CH when charging or 99% when batteries are totally charged.
 
for eg my 320L inverter samsung fridge consumes around 60w to 70w
Have you measured this with a clamp meter ? what about the defrost stages these frost free fridges run periodically

Kelvinator i have has an inrush around 1300W and then a running power of around 280W. It starts to defrost around 3h of power cut so i'm thinking of adding it to the load, if the cruze can handle it
 
Yes, I took the reading with a TrueRMS Clamp meter with capability to measure inrush current, I have two Apc Sua1000uxi which is normaly meant for servers,computers. It cannot handle any sort of inrush more then it's stated capacity of 800w in battery mode.

My panasonic fridge upstairs is regular 2011 5 star frost free fridge(probably 2 star now) and when the compressor kicks on the ups trips with no other device running or connected, the meter registered a inrush current which was way more then what the ups max output is. On the other hand my samsung 4 star 2015 inverter fridge runs fine with ups and the clamp meter doesn't even register inrush current, nor does it read any inrush with my inverter Ac.

During the heating cycle of defrost, I do not recollect the reading, but even if you take the back plate power rating sticker, it is very less, since it defrost will be a resistive load it should still be more then enough for a inverter with 300w or more capacity.

The cruze 2kva should be more then enough.
 
I use 2x 180AH Exide IT500 batteries. I'm curious which area you moved to? 14hrs outage doesn't appear to be normal.
Are you using some battery management system like one sold by Sukam which maintains both batteries at same level when charging/discharging or does the inverter take care of that.
 
I use 2x 180AH Exide IT500 batteries. I'm curious which area you moved to? 14hrs outage doesn't appear to be normal.
Are you using some battery management system like one sold by Sukam which maintains both batteries at same level when charging/discharging or does the inverter take care of that.
 
Are you using some battery management system like one sold by Sukam which maintains both batteries at same level when charging/discharging or does the inverter take care of that.
I'd imagine a 24V system would do that by default
 
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During the heating cycle of defrost, I do not recollect the reading, but even if you take the back plate power rating sticker, it is very less, since it defrost will be a resistive load it should still be more then enough for a inverter with 300w or more capacity.
Yes, maybe OP should post a photo of that ratings sticker here.

The inverter will handle the load but will it affect backup time ? i have no idea about the frequency of those defrost cycles

This is the clamp meter i use btw

https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0017WRH7O

Cheapest i could find that can measure inrush current. Its not a fluke but good enough for home requirements
 
I have the same clamp meter. Also have a Uni-t made one, they are slighly higher in accuracy then mastech but better then the base model budget flukes. As per one review while not the measurement of current but rather volts was as good as some 1000$ or more bench grade multimeter.

Also additionally the star rating sticker on the front shows the units comsumed in a year which includes the total consumption of the fridge for a year under standard test condition.
My panasonic 343l fridge has a sticker of 399 units/ year and my samsung 320l inverter fridge is less then half of that.
If we do the math of my now ineffcient panasonic fridge by diving the units per hr it comes to about 0.04 units per hr, even though it is under standard testing conditions, which is 40watt per hour.
 
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Are you using some battery management system like one sold by Sukam which maintains both batteries at same level when charging/discharging or does the inverter take care of that.
Inverters store electricity continuously while not in use and they cut off from power once batteries get charged. When power goes off they kick in and once again it goes into charging mode when power is back.
If everything's installed and configured properly and using inverters compatible appliances you dont have to worry about the backend stuff. Its all automated.
 
Inverters store electricity continuously while not in use and they cut off from power once batteries get charged. When power goes off they kick in and once again it goes into charging mode when power is back.
If everything's installed and configured properly and using inverters compatible appliances you dont have to worry about the backend stuff. Its all automated.
Not true at all. Not all inverters have the equalization stage when it comes to charging. Even then it is done by overcharging the batteries. The Sukam Battery Managemeny system equalizes without overcharging and is connected to all batteries and display individual voltages at all times. It can also be calibrated with a multimeter.

Would love to get the opinion of others on this as well as I will be going for a 48V system with multiple battery banks if needed.

 
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